Debt Consolidation Calculator
Enter your existing debts — credit cards, personal loans, medical bills — and a proposed consolidation loan to compare total monthly payments, payoff timelines, and total interest paid. See exactly how much you save (or don't) before committing to a consolidation loan.
Educational estimate only. Actual loan terms, approval, and APR depend on your credit score and lender. This calculator assumes fixed monthly payments on your current debts. Credit card minimum payments may decline over time, extending payoff further than shown.
Total Balance
$17,500
Total Monthly Payment
$600.00
Total Interest (current path)
$7,550
Leave blank to use total balance ($17,500)
Typical: 1%–8%. Enter 0 if none.
Monthly Savings
+$147.36
per month
Interest Savings
+$3,673
total over life of loan
New Monthly Payment
$452.64
fixed for 48 months
Payoff Timeline
48 mo
vs. 51 mo current (longest debt)
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Current Debts | Consolidated Loan | |
|---|---|---|
| Total Balance | $17,500 | $17,850(+$350 fee) |
| Monthly Payment | $600.00 | $452.64 |
| Months to Pay Off | 51 mo | 48 mo |
| Total Interest Paid | $7,550 | $3,877 |
| Total Cost (Balance + Interest) | $25,050 | $21,727 |
Individual Debt Payoff Details
| Debt | Balance | APR | Monthly Pmt | Months | Total Interest |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Credit Card 1 | $8,000 | 22.99% | $250.00 | 51 | $4,750 |
| Credit Card 2 | $4,500 | 19.99% | $150.00 | 42 | $1,800 |
| Personal Loan | $5,000 | 12.50% | $200.00 | 30 | $1,000 |
Important Limitations
- This calculator assumes fixed monthly payments on current debts. Credit card minimums typically decrease as balances fall, extending payoff further.
- Actual loan approval, APR, and terms depend on your credit score, income, and lender criteria.
- Consolidating secured debt (e.g., a car loan) into unsecured debt changes your risk profile.
- This tool does not account for prepayment penalties on existing debts or balloon payments.
- Not financial advice. Consult a financial advisor or credit counselor before consolidating debt.
How to Use This Debt Consolidation Calculator
Debt consolidation replaces multiple high-interest debts with a single loan at (ideally) a lower interest rate and fixed term. This calculator compares the true cost of keeping your current debts versus consolidating them.
- Enter Your Current Debts — Add up to five debts. For each, enter the current balance, annual interest rate (APR), and your fixed monthly payment. For credit cards, use your actual payment amount, not just the minimum (minimum-only payments significantly extend payoff time).
- Consolidation Loan Details — Enter the new loan's APR and term in months (e.g., 36, 48, or 60). The loan amount auto-fills from your total debt balance but can be adjusted (e.g., to include origination fees rolled into the loan).
- Origination Fee — Many personal loans charge a 1%–8% origination fee deducted from the loan amount or added to the balance. Including this gives a true apples-to-apples comparison.
- Review the Results — Compare monthly payment changes, total interest paid, and months to payoff. A lower monthly payment with a longer term may cost more in total interest even at a lower rate.
How the Calculation Works
Months to Pay Off (Current Debts)
n = −ln(1 − r×B/P)
÷ ln(1 + r)- B = balance
- r = monthly rate (APR ÷ 12)
- P = monthly payment
Consolidation Monthly Payment
PMT = L × r / (1 − (1+r)^(−n))- L = loan amount
- n = term in months
When Consolidation Makes Sense
Consolidation is beneficial when (a) the new APR is significantly lower than your weighted average current APR, and (b) the term is not so long that interest accumulates and eliminates the savings. It also simplifies finances — one payment instead of many. It may not make sense if the origination fee or term extension erases the rate savings, or if you plan to pay off debts quickly regardless.
Frequently Asked Questions
Debt consolidation combines multiple debts — credit cards, medical bills, personal loans — into a single new loan with one monthly payment. The goal is typically to secure a lower interest rate, reduce monthly payments, simplify your finances, or shorten the payoff timeline. The most common vehicles are personal loans (unsecured, fixed rate, fixed term from a bank, credit union, or online lender), balance transfer credit cards (0% intro APR for 12–21 months), home equity loans, and HELOCs. Consolidation does not erase debt — it restructures it. The total you owe stays the same; the terms change.
In the short term, applying for a consolidation loan triggers a hard inquiry, which typically drops your credit score by 5–10 points for up to 12 months. However, the medium- and long-term effects are usually positive: your credit utilization ratio falls when you pay off revolving credit card balances (utilization accounts for about 30% of your FICO score), and on-time payments on the new fixed loan build positive payment history (35% of FICO). One mistake people make is continuing to use the credit cards they paid off, which rebuilds the original debt while adding the new loan on top — the so-called 'debt consolidation trap.'
Requirements vary by lender, but general guidelines are: (1) 720+ — Excellent; you'll qualify for the best rates (6%–12% APR) from top-tier lenders; (2) 660–719 — Good; most lenders will approve you, though at higher rates (12%–20%); (3) 580–659 — Fair; options are limited, rates are high (20%–36%), and some lenders require a co-signer; (4) Below 580 — Poor; traditional consolidation loans are difficult to obtain; consider credit counseling agencies, non-profit debt management plans (DMPs), or speaking with a bankruptcy attorney. A balance transfer card requires good to excellent credit for approval and a low intro APR.
These are fundamentally different strategies often confused. Debt consolidation means taking out a new loan to pay existing debts in full — you owe the full amount, just under new terms. Your accounts are paid in good standing, and your credit is not damaged beyond the hard inquiry. Debt settlement means negotiating with creditors to accept less than the full balance owed, often 40%–60% of the original amount. Settlement severely damages your credit score (stays on your report for 7 years), the forgiven amount is generally taxable income (IRS Form 1099-C), and the process can take 2–4 years while accounts remain delinquent. Settlement is typically a last resort before bankruptcy.
It depends on your interest rates, discipline, and financial situation. Pay off individually if: (a) your current rates are already low, making a new loan's savings marginal; (b) you can realistically pay off debts within 12–18 months using the avalanche (highest APR first) or snowball (smallest balance first) method; (c) you don't qualify for a meaningfully lower rate. Consolidate if: (a) your weighted average current APR is significantly higher than available consolidation loan rates; (b) managing multiple payment due dates is causing missed payments and late fees; (c) a fixed payoff date provides the structure and motivation you need. Always run the numbers: a lower monthly payment with a longer term can cost more in total interest even at a lower rate.
Key risks include: (1) Extending your repayment period — a lower monthly payment spread over more years may cost you more in total interest; (2) Securing unsecured debt — rolling credit card debt into a home equity loan puts your home at risk if you default; (3) Paying origination fees — 1%–8% fees can negate interest savings, especially on shorter loans; (4) Accumulating new debt — closing credit cards after consolidation and then reopening new ones creates a debt spiral; (5) Variable rate risks — some consolidation products (HELOCs, variable-rate personal loans) have rates that can increase; (6) Prepayment penalties — some existing loans charge fees for early payoff that reduce the benefit of consolidating. Always read the full terms of both the old debts and the new loan before proceeding.
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